The Sardinians have been baking these crackery flatbreads for centuries on their ruggedly beautiful island off the west coast of Italy in the middle of the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. As with most Italian nomenclature, there is poetry in the name. After a few minutes in the oven, they curl and crisp and resemble the parchment paper used to write sacred music. Unlike those scrolls, though, these are delicious with a salumi platter.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line baking sheets with silicone mats or parchment paper.
Whisk the flour, semolina, and salt in a large bowl. Gradually pour in the water and stir with a spoon or your hands until it forms a dough. Knead against the side of the bowl until the dough picks up all the stray bits and comes together in a smooth, dry ball. Add more flour if the dough is sticky, or add a few drops of water if it’s dry. Cut into about 14 (1½-ounce) balls. Cover with plastic wrap.
Working with one ball at a time, pat each ball into a disc, dust lightly with flour, and run through the widest opening on the pasta roller. Fold in half, then run through the same opening again. Turn the dial to the next narrower setting and pass the dough through the rollers. Continue in this way to stretch and thin the dough, turning the dial one setting at a time until the dough has passed through the narrowest setting. It should be thin enough to see through. If the strips get too long to handle, cut them in half and continue. Use just enough flour to keep the dough from sticking to the rollers. They can get up to 3 feet long.
(Alternatively, you can roll each one out with a rolling pin, getting them as thin as possible. You’re still aiming for see-through.)
If necessary, cut the dough so it fits on your baking sheets. Sprinkle with desired toppings and use your fingers or the flat bottom of a metal measuring cup to gently press them into the dough. Repeat rolling and topping you have enough to fill 1 or 2 baking sheets.
Bake until the pieces curl, crisp and brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Watch carefully, they’re delicate little things that can go from brown to burned in a heartbeat.
Repeat with the remaining dough.
Serve whole as part of a salumi platter, letting guests break off their own pieces of crackers.
Suggested toppings
Special Equipment